With the Snow Monkeys – Japan Part 1

Welcome to the first part of my report on our holiday trip to Japan. In this report, I'll tell you how, after a few days of acclimatization in Tokyo, we saw the famous bathing snow monkeys at Jigokudani Yaen-koen. National Park near Yudanaka. And how adventurous buying a ticket for a train ride can be...

Japan is slightly larger than Germany. A three-week vacation makes it impossible to adequately experience the country's diverse facets. Even in Germany, it's different whether I'm traveling to Hamburg and Berlin or the Black Forest and the Harz Mountains. That's why I decided to write this travelogue in several parts. I don't want to burden my readers with the overwhelming experience at times during this eventful journey through wonderful Japan.

Buying tickets for the Nagano Electric Railway

The nearly hour-and-a-half-long Shinkansen ride from Tokyo to Nagano was, as expected, uneventful. Then we stood at the station in Nagano, looking for the platform for the Nagano Electric Railway. This is a private railway company. We had planned plenty of time for this search. Interestingly, I was able to reserve a seat online for the trip from Nagano to Yudanaka, but couldn't buy a ticket. So I anticipated a complicated onward journey, but things got even better.

We found the platform for the train to Yudanaka pretty quickly in the basement outside the Shinkansen station in Nagano. But how do you get a ticket? In Japan, a lot of things are done via vending machines. Before you get to the platform, there are four ticket machines in a small waiting area. None of them accept credit cards, and one is broken. Of the remaining three, two don't accept new banknotes. Until then, I didn't know there were new and old banknotes. Of course, I only have new banknotes.

Eureka!

I think I've found the right button for the ride. There's also a ticket valid for two days that includes discounted entry to Jigokudani Yaen-koen. National Park. To be on the safe side, I double-check for the right ticket, since we're staying for a total of three days, and two days unfortunately doesn't equal 48 hours. Luckily, I have the right amount of bills in my wallet for the train tickets alone.

In Japan, you put all the necessary bills into the machine at once, and as a thank you, you receive coins and a ticket. For reasons unknown to me, I couldn't buy the return ticket at the same time from the machine. Still, writing it down now makes it sound a lot easier than it actually was that day when I was a little pressed for time. On the return trip, I realized that I could have simply paid with the Tokyo Metro's Suica card. So, I could have even gotten our tickets without cash.

The journey on the Nagano Electric Railway

While still in Germany, I booked a front-row seat on a poorly structured website for the private railway company. I didn't know at the time that the front row offers a perfect view of the track. The special thing about the Limited Express train to Yudanaka is that the driver sits above you. I don't know if there's a vehicle inspection in Japan, but it was certainly an adventure to see the train conductor climb through the ceiling on a movable ladder.

Japan is justifiably proud of its rail infrastructure. That's why our train was photographed by people with cameras at almost every station.

Our drive to the mountainous region of Yudanka took 45 minutes. It not only took us into the last days of winter, but also into a completely different Japan than the one we had previously discovered in Tokyo.

At the Ryokan in Yudanaka

Yudanaka has a long history as a hot spring resort, dating back hundreds of years. The atmosphere feels more traditional as you walk uphill from the gently sloping edge of town, where Yudanaka Station is located.

At the station we are greeted by a nice person from our Hotels Masuya The ride only takes about five minutes, but it's uphill the entire way. Walking with suitcases would have been a sweaty affair.

A masuya is a ryokan, the name given to Japanese inns. Traditionally, they offer half board and at least one onsen—natural hot spring bath. According to Japanese law on hot springs, an onsen is defined as "hot water, mineral water, and steam bubbling up from underground." The law stipulates three essential conditions: the mineralized spring water that feeds an onsen must be at least 25°C (1,5°F), originate from a depth of at least XNUMX kilometers (XNUMX miles), and contain certain amounts of minerals such as sulfur, sodium, iron, or magnesium. 

We'll enjoy the onsen the next day. First, we'll take off our shoes, lock them next to the reception desk, and pick out some reasonably fitting slippers. Later, we'll also put on a matching kimono. Now we've truly arrived in Japan.

Eating in a Ryokan

The food in a ryokan is called kaiseki – a traditional multi-course meal. Kaiseki is an art form that harmonizes the taste, texture, appearance, and color of food. Only fresh, seasonal ingredients are used and prepared to bring out their full flavor. Local ingredients are often used.

We had indicated when booking that we were vegetarian and were rewarded with a delicious meal. The five-course dinner was both delicious and plentiful. We had our own small dining room, and every time the door opened, the next course appeared. At one point, we hoped the door wouldn't open again. There was so much to eat—and everything was delicious. Some of it, of course, contained flavors that we, as Europeans, had never tasted before. But it's worth trying them all. Japan has a lot to offer in terms of cuisine.

Breakfast wasn't quite as extensive, but that wasn't necessary. Everything was delicious and fortified us for a strenuous hike to see the bathing monkeys.

The last day of winter wonderland with the snow monkeys

The hotel shuttle takes us to the parking lot, a good 4km away, from where we hike 1,6km through icy snow to the snow monkeys. The sun is shining, and we don't see the sign warning of falling snow until the end of the day. So we have to notice it ourselves as we hike through the forest.

We also realize that we have planned our trip correctly. The Jigokudani Yaen-koen Red-faced macaques living in the national park are known for warming themselves in the onsen during the cold winter temperatures. Monkeys don't usually like water. But our fellow species aren't stupid either. They've not only realized that the onsen's minerals are good for them – but also that warm water can be pleasant.

But to see monkeys bathing here, it has to be cold. It's no longer cold in this winter sports area at the end of March. In the roughly four hours we were there, we saw two monkeys bathing. One was just jumping out of the water when we arrived. It was still a worthwhile trip. The Japanese macaques are not interested in the people who are interested in them. A supervisor makes sure that the people and monkeys don't get too close. This is quite difficult because the monkeys move through the crowds completely calmly. We watch the hustle and bustle. The young ones in particular are enjoying the warm weather and jumping around the park.

Homemade apple turnovers

At some point, we head back and finish the trip at the Enzacafé at the end of the trail with homemade apple turnovers. We also get a monkey head marshmallow for the full tourist load. The homemade apple turnovers were especially delicious. We would do it all again.

If you can't travel there, there is at least a webcam. a good view of the onsen and the red-faced macaques bathing there.

We relax after the wonderful day at Jigokudani Yaen-koen A national park in our ryokan's private onsen. We can't go three steps further into the public onsen because I have a tattoo. Although the Japanese government has issued a declaration since 2017 that tattooed people should be allowed access to public onsen, this isn't mandatory. Tattoos are still considered a sign of affiliation with the Yakuza, a Japanese crime syndicate. We don't feel bad about being denied access to the onsen because the ryokan has a private onsen. This has the advantage that I can at least relax with my loved one. In public onsen, bathing is segregated by gender.

And dinner is once again a culinary delight…

The next day, in 20°C and sunshine, we change from kimono to T-shirt and say goodbye to our hosts at Ryokan Masuya. We'd love to come back.