When I stumbled across the picture above, I realized that I haven't published a tip here on the blog for a while. So here is my ultimate focus tip: decouple autofocus and shutter release!
By default, all cameras I know come into your hands pre-configured so that I activate the autofocus at the same time as the shutter button and focus accordingly. Super convenient! But also useful?
Personally, I cannot produce sharp images with any camera that is set up like this. Probably because I never learned it that way. And what Hans doesn't learn...
In my day, the focus was adjusted at the front of the lens and – logically – released using the shutter release. And yes, I can still remember the time when I focused faster on the 300mm lens on the sidelines than my colleague with his new AF camera. Before this slips into the “Grandpa tells stories from the past” category, I am happy to admit that today – at least in the Bundesliga – that is unimaginable.
Back to the actual topic: look at the picture above again. With the usual camera setting, you focus on the small bike and hold your finger half-pressed on the shutter release until the foreground is right and then press the shutter release all the way down. And hopefully you won't notice that the continuous autofocus (Nikon: AF-C / Canon: AI-Servo) was set - otherwise the foreground will suddenly be in focus. This can lead to cramps in the shutter release finger if you have to wait a long time for the right foreground. And the setting is no longer so "super-comfortable". And because I just noticed: AF-A / AI focus is not available on any professional camera. Why is that? Because it, like I mentioned, nonsense is. So I won't talk about it here again.
The great thing about decoupling autofocus and shutter release is twofold. Firstly, you can always use the camera in continuous autofocus, making it super flexible. It suddenly doesn't matter whether you're photographing a moving object or a stationary one. So you don't have to constantly change the camera's settings. Focusing always works in the same way.
So that the autofocus does not work together with the shutter release, there is an AF-ON or AE-L/AF-L button on the back of all cameras and corresponding options in the menus. At Nikon you just look at the individual functions and autofocus and then at AF activation, which must be set to OFF. Now you can only release the shutter with the trigger. To focus, you then use one of the corresponding buttons at the back.
Using the above picture again as an example: I focus on the small bicycle with one of the rear buttons. Then I can rest my fingers comfortably on the shutter button and when the appropriate foreground comes by, I release the shutter. Complete. I can even move the camera – as long as I remember the spot from which I focused. Nothing stands in the way of refining the image detail. And in many cases it doesn't matter which focus point you chose. In fact, I use the middle one about 95% of the time. That's the second advantage for me - if you haven't forgotten by now that I wrote about two things two paragraphs ago.
How do I photograph a moving object with this setting? It's very simple: I leave my finger on the corresponding button and release it when I want.
If you doubt that this is possible: 100% of the sports photos in my blog that were taken with autofocus were taken with this setting.
OK, I took the picture above with a small modification of the tip just described: I used a manual lens 😉
Just try it out. But give yourself some time: the change takes some getting used to.

Great tip Stefan, for anyone who didn't know that yet. I actually shoot almost 100% of the time this way, it's also the quickest way, even with my Canon.
Yes, that’s right: it’s nothing new at all 🙂
Thanks for the tip. I was already thinking that I could further optimize my AF capabilities, because up until now I didn't find it that convenient. Try it out straight away...
Have fun trying it out 🙂
Thank you for this once again very entertaining and pleasantly written article. This technique is recommended from time to time. I really need to try to get comfortable with it again.
In order to keep my focus despite any foreground etc., I have always only used the focus lock, which I have placed on a key at the front. But sometimes this just degenerates into fiddling and random focusing.
I will test the separation of focus and trigger again in peace.
By the way: The integration/presentation of the featured image is great!
That's the way it is !!! Well explained
The only disadvantage is when you hand the camera over to a novice and have to explain to him what he has to do to get the device to trigger =)
Triggering always works. Only the image is not sharp. But with such an expensive camera it's no problem to take great photos 😉
I never have it on release priority 😉
I always do it because when in doubt the camera doesn't know where I have the focus anyway 😉
Thanks for the tip, I’ll have to try that 🙂
...a simple and honest THANK YOU for that.
Please – PLEASE – BIIIITTEEEEE introduce this category: “Grandpa talks about the old days” – PLEASE!!!
I agree with Jörg! Please introduce this category, it's really missing 😉
I can't imagine it any other way
AF-C is only a little impractical with "amateur cameras" like the D7000 or D600 when you have to focus and pan to get a "sensible" setup thanks to the very centrally located AF fields. Otherwise... signature below and thanks Grandpa Groenveld.
Hello and thank you for this tip.
I had read about it somewhere (it was a while ago) and wanted to try it out, but somehow I forgot #-).
So that this doesn't happen again, I'll change my camera accordingly and see how I can deal with it. It definitely seems to have some advantages.
🙂 very nicely described and explained. Back to the roots. Thanks Grandpa 🙂
Fear 😉
Hello Stefan
I'm happy to agree with everything you write about the separation of AF and trigger. But it’s – at least for me – a question of mentality and age…
Just as I've been too stupid to have even a slight chance against the junior with any kind of game console or a simple Nintendo since the beginning of these devices, I'm also happy with the AF. If I can't handle a single double joystick, I try to avoid separating the shutter release and AF. The fear of missing the desired scene in basketball is too great. Even if I only do it as a hobbyist. If I were 60/2, AF-wise I would also act like you!
Greetings from Bonn
Ralf
PS.: I missed your trademark, the Millerntor T-shirt at Photokina 😉 Although you didn't miss that much in Cologne, you shouldn't have been there.
I'm with you on the gaming consoles. I've long since passed the 60/2. But of course everyone has to decide for themselves how best to use their camera. It was just a suggestion because I know that you can't easily come up with it yourself.
This time at Photokina I was in a shirt. After all, I now take photos with Leica 😉
Shocking – Leica… 😉 But that really isn’t possible – when St. Pauli “rabble” show up there 😉
Don't tell anyone, I was at Leica too. With a good friend who photographs the entire sport for a Bonn daily newspaper. To celebrate the day he brought his analog M4 (I think it was) and his economy optics: a 2/40, which actually belongs on the Minolta/Leica CLE. I'm not ready for Leica yet, but you never know 😉 Although I would then choose the Leica variant of a Lumix, which is around 100 euros nicer and which I really liked...
But Leica in general. I know people who immediately foam at the mouth when the manufacturer's name is mentioned. And? Who had the best photo exhibitions? How I enjoyed the sometimes not razor-sharp and terribly grainy 😉 black and white rock concert photos of "my youth"... A Jimi Hendrix that you only "discovered" after looking at the photo for a few minutes. What were the smooth, boring concert photos in color compared to that...
Ralf
There was a nice exhibition of concert photos in the main station. Far away from Photokina...
I have to admit that I was often annoyed about the automaticity, but it was only after your post that I questioned it. So thank you very much, Stefan. Greetings from Berlin to my old homeland!
I also use the decoupling of shutter release and focus from time to time, but I'm not 5% satisfied with the results on moving subjects. Probably also because I don't know what to set on the Canon XNUMXd Mark II.
What would you stop doing when exercising?
C.Fn IV-1: Shutter AF start button (4 options)
Determines the function of the shutter button and the AF-ON button.
Measurement + AF start: when you press the resolver, the AF is started and the exposure measurement is carried out.
Measurement + AF start/AF stop: when you press the shutter button, AF and exposure measurement are started; by pressing the AF-ON button, the AF can be stopped again.
Measurement start / Measurement + AF start: the AF is started by the AF-ON button. The measurement is taken immediately before recording.
AE lock / measurement + AF start: AE lock is carried out by pressing the shutter button halfway. The AF-ON button starts AF and exposure measurement.
Measurement + AF start / deactivated: the AF-ON button is deactivated.
Moin,,
What bothers you about the results and how do the results differ from your expectations?
I'll take the most extreme example, ice hockey, where the players move very quickly. I imagine that when decoupled, the white balance and exposure metering work better, but moving scenes, for example a player sprinting, are more likely to be blurred than when the focus is on the shutter button. It also feels like it depends on whether I'm standing between the players' benches and the player drives past me to the side (from left to right), or whether I'm in a curve and the player is coming towards me or I'm focusing on the goalkeeper. which hardly moves anyway. At the latter point of view, the waste with decoupling is minimally lower in the curves and higher on the sides.
The white balance and exposure are fixed for me, as both do not change in the hall.
I can't say much about the rest because I've never had any problems with focusing.
Help! I just can't figure it out - the decoupling thing! Use a Nikon D600 and shoot in Af-C mode (continuous autofocus, right? to be flexible) and then have the AE-L/AF-L button set to AF-On (activate autofocus) under the individual functions f controls. So far correct or is there already an error here?
So I press the AE-L/AF-L button and focus... the camera focuses... and then I change the frame by panning away... of course I keep my finger on the button... and hey presto! it focuses on another object. Did I misunderstand that? Don't write... I can even move the camera... Nothing stands in the way of refining the image detail?!
I can't understand that. What am I doing wrong?!
Found the error! Have to take my finger off the key when I change the crop!